In the heart of Pelham, New York, sits a tiny, 750-square-foot pizzeria that is currently defying the odds of the restaurant industry. If you walk into Pizza Fenice, you’ll likely see John Christina, a World Pizza Champion, manning the ovens himself.
In a recent episode of the Pizza Story podcast, host Erica D’Arcangelo sat down with John to discuss his winding journey, the “unresolved issues” that brought him back to the dough, and why he chose to open a “hole in the wall” with no delivery and limited hours.
The “Cold Turkey” Departure
John wasn’t always the solo mastermind behind a trending pizza spot. After years of working in his father’s shop (where he was once famously yelled at in front of customers at age 13) and later managing several pizzerias, John found himself in a partnership that eventually soured.
He didn’t just leave his business; he left the industry entirely. For 13 years, John lived a completely different life. He became a licensed massage therapist, worked in hospitals, and held corporate roles for brands like Just Salad and Cheesecake Factory. “It was like quitting smoking cold turkey,” John recalled. “I had to sever ties with everything.”
The COVID Spark and the “Basement” Theory
It took a global pandemic and some persistent friends to bring John back. While working at Phelps Memorial Hospital, John started doing backyard pop-up parties. But the itch to return to professional baking was deeper than just a hobby.
John references a line from the movie Rocky Balboa about having “stuff in the basement”—unresolved dreams or energy that you have to get out. For John, that “stuff” was proving he could succeed on his own terms, with his own recipes, without being “married to a system” that already existed.
Finding the “Dog of the Strip”
John’s return to the business wasn’t about finding a shiny, turnkey location. He found a struggling, tiny shop in Pelham, which he called the “dog of the strip” among five other pizzerias.
On a hunch, he sent a realtor friend in to ask if the owner was selling. The timing was eerie: the owner had decided to sell only the day before. John signed the lease, rejoined the World Pizza Champions, and opened Pizza Fenice on May 9, 2022. He started with no employees and no advertising, focusing on organic growth. John wanted to ensure he could handle the quality before seeking the quantity. Between influencers and a visit from Barstool Sports’ Dave Portnoy sent the shop’s growth into a vertical climb.
Crafting a Flavor Legacy
For John, pizza is about emotion and heritage. Drawing on his Sicilian and Abruzzese roots, he crafts a menu that balances nostalgia with bold, modern risks.
A standout is the Sunday Sausage, which skips traditional toppings in favor of braised sausage and peppers, just like a home-cooked Italian dinner, paired with a unique homemade provolone sauce. For those seeking bold energy, The Angry Drunk Bird delivers a spicy chicken parm experience fueled by vodka sauce and chili oil, while The Meathead offers a classic, hearty tribute to the All in the Family character. Finally, there is the Detroit Style: the thick, crunchy, sauce-stripped masterpiece that originally put Pizza Fenice on the map.
Why Small is Better
Despite his success, John isn’t looking to build a massive empire. He purposefully keeps the shop small, with only eight seats and no delivery service.
“I’m one of those guys who has enough rocks in his head that likes what he does,” John laughed. “It’s painful to have somebody else do it. I’m happy with what I’m doing.”
For John, the reward isn’t the profit margin; it’s the “chemical thing” that happens when a customer takes a bite. Whether it’s someone who usually gets heartburn finally finding a dough they can digest, or a neighbor stopping in for a slice, John is finally clearing out that “basement.”
How to Find Pizza Fenice
If you’re in the Westchester area and looking for a slice of world-class pizza (just don’t ask for a slice after 6:00 PM on Fridays, although you can do that too!).
Follow Pizza Fenice on Instagram @pizzafenice
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